Each Cook Must Study Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.
When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.
An Shocking Honour
This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners completely astonished.
“I am totally astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
A Charm of Simplicity
This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.
The Signature Creation: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.
Rising Above the Stars
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.
A Creed of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
The Story of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
An Achievement for the People
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.